Thursday, September 26, 2013

Madd Style Cosmetics: Dramatic Red and Purple!

Hi, hello!!  :)

It's time for another tutorial, don't you think??  I recently discovered that my local Sephora now has a full Obsessive Compulsive Cosmetics end cap display (before they only had random Lip Tars available in the tubs at the line-up).  Colour me much enthused about this!  I was really looking forward to checking out the Lip Tars from the new Moderncraft collection and my local Sephora managed to get the colours in pretty quickly!  Hooray!!  I picked up Role Play and Black Metal Dahlia and went home on my merry way.  

This look was inspired by my hardcore desire to use Black Metal Dahlia as soon as possible!  Mo, the creator of Madd Style Cosmetics, suggested I pair it with some reds and purples and that is what I did!  It is a very bold lip and bold eye combo, using none other than Madd Style Cosmetics pigments, and although I likely wouldn't wear this out on Monday morning--it's perfect for a sultry evening, I think!

If you want to find out how I achieved the below look, please keep on reading!

Gather your wonderful supplies!

The All Natural Face Magic Eye Shadow Primer; Barry M Bold Black Eyeliner; NYX Eyeshadow  Base in "White"; Gabriel Color Mascara in "Black"; Madd Style Cosmetics Pigments (clockwise from the top left): You've Got Red on You, Glitter Bitches, Sugarplum, Psychic Paper, Unicorns & Glitter and Bowties are Cool; Urban Decay 24/7 liner in "Zero"; Korres Eye Kohl in "White"; Brushes: Real Techniques Shading Brush, Bdellium Tools 772, Bdellium Tools 776,  Bdellium Tools 778, Bdellium Tools 780, Bdellium Tools716, Sephora Professional Smoky Eye #24, Real Techniques Accent Brush and Real Techniques Pixel-Pointed Eyeliner Brush.

Yes--it's A LOT of brushes--I wanted to use a different brush for each colour to make sure the colours didn't get muddy.  You can definitely do the look using less brushes--just wipe your brushes off on a piece of tissue between colours.  :)
As is typical, begin with a squeaky clean eye!

Apply your favorite primer using your ring finger (or a brush, if you prefer).  Primers will help ensure that your eyeshadows stay in place all day long.  Apply the primer evenly to the entire eyelid area (up to the brow, down along the duct area and along the lower lash line) in a thin layer.  Allow it to dry/set before moving to the next step.  

Next is your base.  Apply a white base to the center of your lid and blend it up into the crease with your ring finger.  Then, grab a black eyeliner pencil (or whatever black base you prefer) and apply it to the inner quarter and outer quarter of your lid.  Keep the black below the crease. Applying a black in the inner and outer areas will help the black shadow appear solid black.  This is what we're going for.

Using your ring finger, blend out the black pencil and blend it gently toward the white base.  

Taking a small shadow brush, dip it into MSC's "You've Got Red on You" (a super red that leans a bit burgundy).  Press the colour into the bristles of your brush using the inside of the lid of the pigment.  This will help avoid fallout and is how I use ALL of my pigments to make sure the glitter sticks to the lid and doesn't fall down onto my cheeks.  Apply this colour by patting/pressing it on to the center portion of the lid where the white base was applied.  Don't take this colour up above your crease.  

Switch to an even smaller brush and dip it into MSC's "Glitter Bitches" (a gorgeous black with pink/purple glitter).  Pat this colour over of the black base on the outer and inner lid area.  

Using that small brush, buff out the black ever so slightly.  You can connect it over to top of the red or you can leave it separate at the inner and outer lid, that's up to you.  Connecting it, however, may help to give a bit more depth to your eye in the end.

Switch to a fluffy crease brush and dip it into MSC's "Bowties are Cool" (a deep matte berry colour).  Starting at the outer corner of your crease, apply it heaviest at that outer corner and then blend throughout the entire crease area.  

To help with the transition between the lid and the matte crease colour (and to add depth and a bit more interest to the eye!), take MSC's Sugarplum (a pink toned purple) on a pointed crease brush and apply it to the deepest part of the crease from the outer crease all of the way in to the inner part of the crease.  Then, switch back to the fluffy crease brush and apply a bit more "Bowties are Cool" to ensure that the colours are nicely blended.

Layering really is the key of this look.  Go back to the first small shader brush and reapply "You've Got Red on You".

Switch back to the smaller brush and re-darken the "Glitter  Bitches".  Keep layering until you are happy with the pigmentation of all of the colours.  

Using a flat shader brush, dip it into MSC's "Psychic Paper" (a matte beige shadow that is lighter than my skintone) and apply below the eyebrow.  Start at the highest arch of the brow and then blend out below the entire brow.  Be sure to blend this down into "Bowties are Cool" as well--you don't want any harsh lines.  Or--if you prefer harsh lines, don't be so blend happy.  :)

Line your lower lash line with a white pencil.  Take it in all of the way to the tear duct.  This will help your shadows stick and stay in place!

Taking a small pointed pencil brush, apply "Bowties are Cool" over the white.  Don't take it all of the way into the tear duct area, that is being saved for the duct highlight.  Then, using a black eyeliner pencil, line your upper and lower waterlines.  Be sure to tightline between your upper lashes as well.  Taking another pencil brush, blend out the black pencil on the lower lash line a tad.  

 Apply some "Sugarplum" closer to the lashes than you did with "Bowties are Cool".  It will add a neat blue cast to the lower lash line.   You can stop here if you want, but I wanted to darken it up a tad more--so I took a smaller brush and applied "Glitter Bitches" right into the base of the lower lashes. 

Lastly--take a small brush and dip it into MSC's "Unicorn and Glitter" (a neutral light pink colour with a very strong gold duochrome) and apply this to the tear duct area.  Blend it up into the inner lid a bit and down along the lower lash line a tiny bit.

Apply some mascara to the top and bottom lashes and you're done!  (You can apply a liner but because my eyes are semi-hooded, I didn't want the liner to hide the lid colours--instead, I took a push liner brush and a matte black shadow and lined my upper lid very very tight to the lashes.)

And here's the whole look with OCC's "Black Metal Dahlia" Lip Tar:

I don't know why there is that huge black part in my eye when I upload this photo to blogger.  I swear it's not there in the real picture!

 I hope you enjoyed this tutorial!  Please let me know if you have any additional questions!  Also, as always, if you have any requests for looks you'd like to see me do--please let me know.

Thank you for stopping on by!  :)

1 comment: