Madd Style Cosmetics: Neutral Eye with POW Liner

Hi All!

I am back with my next phototurial!  I was recently chatting with my friend Jackie and asked her what kind of eye makeup she pairs with OCC's Lip Tar in Black Dahlia--she said she did it with a teal winged liner and I decided to try my hand at something similar.

The result was this look:

If you'd like to find out how I achieved this look using Madd Style Cosmetics piggies, then please, keep on reading.  :)

As is typical for my tutorials--you want to start by gathering your supplies.  You are by no means limited by the colours I chose--you basically want to pick a couple of neutral colours for the lid: one lighter shade, that can be sparkly, if you so choose, and one medium to darker shade of brow (or grey).  Then you want to pick a fun colour for the liner.  I went with a teal blueish colour and I liked the results--but you can really go with any colour you're feeling particularly jazzed about.

Left to Right  Optimus Primer by Madd Style Cosmetics; Madd Style Cosmetics piggies (from top left): Dirty Chai, Regeneration, Under the Sea and Psychic Paper; Gabriel Color Mascara in "Black"; brushes: one small shader brush, one fluffy crease brush, a duo fiber brush, a liner brush and a push liner brush.

Begin with a clean eye.

Take a primer, like Optimus Primer by Madd Style Cosmetics, and put a thin layer all over the entire eyelid (all the way up to under the eyebrow).  You want to be sure to use a primer to ensure that your eye shadows will stay in place all day.  Typically I also use a base of some kind (white or black), but as I wanted the lid colours to stay rather soft, I opted to do primer only for this look.  

Using a small shader brush, dip it into Madd Style Cosmetics Dirty Chai (a sparkly light beige) and apply it all over the entire eyelid area.  You want to be sure to "press" this colour into the lid so that the sparkles stick to the primer you applied before.  I applied this all the way up to my crease and lightly blended out the edges with the same small shader brush.  

Switch to a fluffy crease brush and dip it into Madd Style Cosmetics Regeneration (a lovely matte warm toned medium brown) and apply this to the crease.  I started by "stamping" the colour at the outer corner of my crease and then I swept it into the inner eye using windshield wiper motions.  The picture on the right shows that I do this step with my eye open--this ensures that the colour is placed high enough up as my eyelids are semi-hooded.  I don't want it to get lost in the fold of my eye, so keeping my eye open helps to make sure I'm getting it where I want it (and where it will be visible when my eye is open).

Now take a less densely packed brush (you don't need to use a duo fiber brush) and dip it into Madd Style Cosmetics Psychic Paper.  Start by applying this colour to the highest point of the arch of your brow and then blend it out along the rest of the brow bone area.  You also want to be sure to blend this colour down into Regeneration to make sure there are no stark lines between the colours.

Now for liner!  If you have an awesome teal or blue liner, go ahead and use that. I like to use this technique to make liners out of ANY MSC shadow that I own.  I use a mixing/foiling medium (this particular one is by Aromaleigh Cosmetics--I am not sure if they still make it) and put a drop of it on the back of my hand.  Then I take as much pigment as I need so that the line that is created with the mixed liner is solid (you can see on the right that the lower line is kind of faint and the second line is much more strong--that is because I kept adding more pigment to the mix until I was happy with the final pigmentation).  You want it to be wet (so that it still glides on to the lid), but not TOO wet (or it will just bleed and be a mess!).  

I chose to use Madd Style Cosmetics Under the Sea (a beautiful blue teal) for my liner.

I like the thickness of this particular liner brush because it makes a line that is rather thick to start out with and that means I don't have to work hard to layer it until I am happy.  I started by just doing a plain line at the base of the lashes/on to the lid from the inner to the outer lid.  I made sure the line was thinner in the inner most part of the eye and flared it out ever so slightly at the outer lid.

Now for the wing!  I tried using these yellow lines to show how I figure out my angle.  You want to start out by doing the "flick"--imagine your lower lash line continued on an upward slant and continued toward the end of your eyebrow.   You can make this line as long as you want--the longer the more extreme or bold your finished liner will be.  For me, because my eyes are slightly down-turned at the outside corner, I make sure that the angle of my line "lifts" my eye--if I went straight out from the upper lash line, for example, the resulting liner would accentuate the down-turned-ness of my eye.  Once you're happy with the length and angle of your line, you want to connect it to the rest of the liner by filling in that gap and making a sort of triangle.  Make sure the wing meets the lid liner smoothly and that there are no bumps in the liner.  If your liner is a bit wet, you can also apply more of Under the Sea dry over the wet part and that will make the colour pop even more.

Lastly, take a push liner brush and dip it into a matte black eye shadow.  Press this colour into the base of your lashes.  This will help your lashes look more full.  You can make the black line slightly thicker at the outside of the lid if you want (I did that and I liked the effect).  

After applying some black mascara to the lower and upper lashes...you're done!

Here is the full look with OCC's Lip Tar in Black Dahlia.

Thank you all, as always, for stopping by and taking a look at my tutorial.  I would love to know if you found this helpful or if you think you might try it out yourself.  :)

If you have any questions or requests for future tutorials, please leave me a comment!

Until next time--take care!