Monday, December 26, 2011

Madd Style Cosmetics: Pin-up Inspired

Hi Everyone!!

December was an incredibly busy month for me--and thus I was only able to get one tutorial together to post. :( Between working my regular full-time job and the craziness that ensues with extra grading and exam time with my T.A position, makeup just wasn't allowed to be a priority (sadly!). Come January, though, I should be back to my two tutorials a month routine! :)

For this tutorial I wanted to try something different with my liner. The goal was to see if I could use some brush techniques to allow my Urban Decay 24/7 pencils to be used for winged liner! This look, accordingly, is heavily focused on the liner and the eye makeup itself is quite subdued, as you will see. The results were acceptable to me in the long run--especially considering this was my first shot at trying out this new liner. I hope you will enjoy the tutorial! If you want to see how I achieved the below look, please keep on reading.

As always, gather your supplies!

(Left to right: Too Faced Shadow Insurance; Urban Decay 24/7 Glide On Pencil in "Zero"; Milan Power Lash in "Black"; Madd Style Cosmetics Pigments (clockwise from the top left): Honey Rose, Birfday Suit, Dirty Beats, Dirty Chai and the Matte Black (mine is from the Up in Smoke collection, but you can purchase it now in the Shade Short Stack); Slanted Eye Shadow Brush; Shader Brush; Pointed Crease Brush; 2 Angled Liner Brushes; Pencil Brush; Lip Brush; Barry M Lip Liner in "red"; and Obsessive Compulsive Cosmetics Lip Tar in "Stalker".)

As always, start out with a squeaky clean eye area.

Prime your eyelids with your favorite primer. I use Too Faced Shadow Insurance. I put a small dab of it on a ring finger and then I rub my two ring fingers together and apply the product to my entire lid area (up to the brow) and down around the duct and whatever product is left gets run along my lower lash line. The product essentially "disappears" once it is rubbed in--as you can see on the picture on the right. By applying a primer it ensures that your pigments have an even canvas to adhere to and it helps to prevent any unsightly creasing throughout the day.

Usually at this point I apply a base to my lid--but because this eye look is quite neutral (except for the liner), I am going to skip the base step and proceed straight to pigments. To begin, take a slanted eye shadow brush (or your favorite brow highlighter brush). Dip it into a matte pigment that is the same colour as your skin tone--my go-to brow highlight is Madd Style Cosmetics "Birfday Suit". I begin by placing it right below the highest arch of my brow and then I blend it out to the rest of the brow bone area. Blend this colour down slightly toward the crease as well.

For my lid colour I also wanted to pick something quite light, but something with a bit more colour than "Birfday Suit". Luckily I *just* got "Honey Rose" and it was perfect for this occasion! "Honey Rose" is a matte light brown colour with a slight lean to pinkish. On a small shader brush, dip it into "Honey Rose" and apply it to your entire lid area. Be sure to take it up far enough that it blends into the "Birfday Suit" at the brow/crease area.

To help define the crease area, take a pointed crease brush and dip it into MSC's "Dirty Beats". You only want a small amount of this one--you don't want the colour to be all that noticeable, you're aiming for more of a "wash" of colour in the crease just to give your eyelid some dimension. Starting at the outer corner of the eye, place the colour (as you see on the picture on the right).

Then blend this up into the crease. Be careful that you don't let the colour "sag" at the outer corner of your eye--this will make your eyes appear droopy. Since my eyes are somewhat "moon" shaped, I have to be extra careful of this! You always want your shadows to be angled "upwards" toward the end of your eyebrow! In the middle picture you can see me using my pinky finger to help clean up that outer corner and to ensure that the colour stays at an upward angle and doesn't get droopy!

Switch to a clean fluffy blending brush (I forgot to photograph this one in my "supplies" picture!). You're going to want to diffuse "Dirty Beats" even more. Blend blend blend! Concentrate on taking the colour "up and out" at the outer eye, but make sure to taper it in toward the mid and inner crease.

Now for the liner! Take your favorite black liner pencil. I love the Urban Decay 24/7 pencils because they are quite soft and they don't tug on your eyelid as you put it on. Starting at the outer corner of your eye, make the wing. Just taper the line in as you move from the outer to the inner part of the lash line. Once you're happy with the shape, you're done! (In the future, I would make my wing a bit longer and thicker at the outer corner.) Don't worry if the lines aren't exactly "crisp" or perfect, we're gonna use some brushes and pigment to help with that!

Next, take a tiny angled liner brush. This one I am using is a bdellium tools "Green Bambu" brush and it worked perfectly! It is definitely my tiniest angled brush!! Starting at the outer wing area, smooth out the black liner and make the lines a bit more crisp. As you work on the outer corner, your brush will pick up some colour--and as this happens, you can work your way toward the inner lash line and use that colour to help taper the liner to "nothing" at the inner most part of your lash line.

Now, grab a clean angled liner brush and dip it into a matte black MSC pigment. Again, starting at the outer corner, you're basically "pressing" this on top of the pencil to help set it and to also help smooth it out and to make it even more black. Then, with a bit of the product still on your brush, sweep it along the outer 1/3rd of your lower lash line, keeping as close to your lashes as possible.

Switch to a pencil brush and dip it into MSC's "Dirty Chai". Apply this to your duct area and blend it up slightly into the inner crease and along the inner 1/3rd of the lower lash line.

To keep with the emphasis on your outer corner, apply mascara to your upper lashes. Then, apply it to the outer 1/3rd of your lower lashes as well! This might get kind of "goopy" so use a nifty lash/brow comb to help separate them. (The comb I have is metal (and awesome) and it is from my Royal and Langnickel Silk Green Line brush set.) The picture on the right is actually *before* I've used the comb.

Your final look should be something like this!

To make it even more "holiday" and "pin up-y" apply red liner to your lips and fill them in with OCC's Lip Tar in "Stalker"! That will really REALLY help to complete the look!

I hope you enjoyed this tutorial!! I had a lot of fun with it. :)

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