Friday, April 1, 2011

Madd Style Cosmetics: Cut crease with Bubblegum Crisis and UiS Matte Grey

Cut crease looks have been a favorite choice of mine lately. Nevermind the fact that I tried to photograph a tutorial of this look the weekend before last:

(This look was featured in an EOTD I posted a few days ago. That blog will tell you all of the Madd Style Cosmetics products I used to achieve it!)

I realized halfway through that my camera was on a wonky setting and the pictures were blurry as heck. Thus, the tutorial was aborted. But then last weekend I decided to do a cut crease again, only I was more careful with how the pictures were turning out!

I like to do cut crease looks because they permit colour combination that wouldn't work quite as well if the two main colours were blended together (or they could work together well if you blend them in just the right way, or you could avoid blending all together just by doing a cut crease!). As my fellow Madd Model pal, Krissi, explained in a wonderful complementary colour explanation (which is part of an even greater colour series!!) over on her blog: using complementary colours can be tricky because they blend together into a white, brown, grey or black colour. The solution to this, I like to think, is the cut crease (although my orange and blue look is more to the complementary point than the pink and grey one that will follow with this tutorial). That way the Madd Style Cosmetics colours can stay distinct, bright, and the effect of putting them together really helps both to stand out like they couldn't with colours that weren't complementary. So, if you want to find out a step-by-step guide on how I achieved this look:

Read on!

First you will need supplies!

(Left to right: The All Natural Face Shadow Primer in "Buff"; NYX Eyeshadow Base in "White"; Gabriel Color Mascara in "Black"; Madd Style Cosmetics Pigments in: (t-l) Bubblegum Crisis, (b-l) matte Black (Up in Smoke collection), (b-r) matte Grey (Up in Smoke collection), (t-r) Love and Rockets; paddle style eyeshadow brush; pencil style brush; fluffy eyeshadow brush; pointed crease brush; extra fluffy blender brush.)

**Note: The UiS collection is now sold out, BUT, Mo *just* released a new colour, Touch of Grey, that would work MARVELOUSLY with Bubblegum Crisis in this look! And don't fret if you don't have the UiS matte Black--any matte black will do!

Plus, you'll need a clean eye:

To begin, I prime my eyelid. My primer of choice, lately, has been The All Natural Face primer in "Buff". I rub my finger in a circular motion around on the product and apply it all over my eyelid (from lid up to brow bone and a bit on the lower lash line). The product you see here on my finger is the amount I apply to a single eye.

Next I apply my base. The NYX Eyeshadow Base is quite soft, so I usually just "touch" the product with my finger and the amount on my finger after that touch is the amount that I apply to the center of my lid. Then I blend it out to the rest of the lip (around my inner eye and a bit down on my lower lash line) and up towards my brow bone.

Some people start their cut creases with the crease colour, for this tutorial, I began it with my lid colour. You should try it both ways to see which you prefer! I have an easier time getting the two colours separate and crisp when I do the lid colour first. So, taking my paddle style eyeshadow brush, I dipped it into Madd Style Cosmetics Bubblegum Crisis. To get the product distributed among the bristles, I then swirl the brush in the lid of the pigment to help get the colour packed on my brush. Then I pat the pigment on to my eyelid. Patting is important, no swiping!! I kept this colour fairly low on my lid and only blended it slightly out above my natural "crease" (or where that line is on my eyelid).

Next, I took my pencil-ish brush and dipped it into MSC's matte Black pigment. With the same swirling the brush around in the lid practice, I distributed the black pigment evenly on the brush. Then, starting on my outer-most crease, I draw a line following my eye socket. Yes, it's very black, but don't worry--you're going to be putting a light colour on top to help blend it out. (You could even skip the black, but when I'm going for a stark difference between my lid and crease colour, I like to deepen the crease by putting a black underneath it--as I also did with the orange and blue look of the aborted tutorial!). Notice that I concentrated most of the darkest black in the outer eye and as I get towards the inner eye, the black is lighter. To make this happen, don't apply more black pigment to your brush on that first line that you draw across from your outer to your inner crease. Then, once I got to the inner crease, I went back over towards the outer crease and blended the black out slightly towards the brow bone.

Pt. 1

Pt. 2

Using the same pencil-ish brush, I drew a line down from my outer crease to the outer most edge of where my top and bottom lashes meet at the corner of my eye. With the pink that is on the outer corner of the lid, you can round out that point, if you want, or you can leave it--it's up to you and what kind of look you're going for!

I rounded that point out a bit, as you can see on the left hand picture here. But I didn't round it too much. I also took a bit more black pigment on the brush and brushed it along the outer half of my lower lash line. I taper that line as I get towards the middle of my eye so that I'm not left with a thick black line all along the bottom of my lashes (not the look I was going for this time!).

Next, I took a fluffier eyeshadow brush and dipped it into MSC's matte grey. Just as before, I swirl the brush around inside of the lid of the pigment to help get that colour evenly dispersed. Then, with the colour on one side of the brush, I flipped the brush over so the colour would be applied more towards the outside edge of the black and less on the line that divides the black and pink. Apply as much of the grey as you need to in order to cover the black and fade out that harsh line between the black and your brow.

The help blend that line out, you can take even more matte grey pigment on your brush and lightly brush it along the line. I also took some grey pigment and applied it over the black on my lower lash line.

To help blend out your inner crease, I like to take a colour that is similar to the crease colour, but lighter. For this look, I took Madd Style Cosmetics Love and Rockets (a wonderful white with a blue duo-chrome) and applied it to a pointed crease brush. Starting in the inner crease, I blended it into the grey towards the middle of the crease and then down towards the tear duct area.

At this point, I had something like this:

Lastly is the brow highlight. Taking an extra fluffy brush, and Love and Rockets (again!), I lightly dusted it along my brow bone.

Apply some mascara, and it's done!

I hope this inspires *you* to try out a cut crease look of your own! I'd love it so much if you did and then emailed me a few pictures of your look (dslrbbt at gmail dot com)! Or better yet, post them over at the Madd Style Cosmetics fanpage on Facebook!! :)

If you haven't already checked out Madd Style Cosmetics, NOW is your perfect opportunity because Mo is hosting a rockin' April Fools Weekend Sale! Head on over to the facebook fanpage to learn more about the crazy awesome deals that are happening RIGHT NOW!

1 comment: